Aimee KovalFunk 'n Waffles, 727 S. Crouse Ave., Syracuse
It would be hard to argue that Funk'n Waffles isn't something of a dive.
Hidden inside Campus Plaza alley, down a dank stairway to its basem*nt-level home off South Crouse Avenue, in Syracuse, Funk’n Waffles requires a descent into another world. It’s no secret to SU students that this impossibly cool eatery is one of the best places in town to get comfy, eat well and hear some great music.
Adam Gold took our order at the service counter, intermittently welcoming customers as he talked up his favorite menu items.
We were impressed with the array of high quality ingredients, including organic flour and sugar, real New York maple syrup, fair trade coffee and free range eggs, and the commitment to working with many local producers, bakers and grocers.
Tantalized by the selection of sweet and savory waffles, not to mention grilled sandwiches and a well-stocked tea and espresso bar, we were limited only by the capacity of our stomachs.
From the Sweet Waffle menu, we chose the Iron, Lion, Zion ($6.99), a dark, earthy blueberry-buckwheat waffle topped with fresh strawberries and bananas.
The Savory Waffle selection was tougher to narrow down; eventually we settled on the Jive Turkey Waffle ($7.49) and Chicken’n Waffles ($6.99). Six meaty, crunchy chicken wings took the place of the more typical drumsticks and thighs beside the chewy buttermilk waffle, both of which speeded to the top of my list of best-ever versions of each element.
What I saw next brought a little tear to my eye: It was a waffle made entirely of stuffing.
You heard right. Nothing but crispy stuffing in waffle form, topped with turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy and a side of cranberry sauce. My only wish was that the deli turkey had been replaced with roasted turkey breast to bring the concoction’s glory all the way home, but it was still a thing of beauty.
The nonconformists among us appreciated the Design-Your-Own Waffle option, with waffle bases including stuffing, brownie, vegan and other classic batters, as well as toppings ranging from local eggs, berries, and whipped cream to rare variations like Nutella, pulled pork and tahini.
Custom orders will suit vegans and the gluten-sensitive, as most items can be adapted to fit special dietary needs.
The vast array of waffle combos nearly caused us to overlook the fine Grilled Sandwich selection, all prepared with Pasta’s Daily Bread stretch bread. There were no regrets about our detour into sandwich land, so delicious was our Afro-Cuban ($8.49) stuffed with creamy pulled pork, ham, Swiss, sliced pickle and mustard.
Soon, the bread and batter began to catch up with us. We thought better than to order the Brownie Waffle Sundae beckoning us from the next table over and settled on sweet drinks for dessert.
Instead of alcohol, the restaurant serves up coffee, smoothies, juices, teas, milkshakes and energy drinks to sleepy students craving a caffeine-and-sugar jolt. Our after-dinner treats included Dirty Chai ($3.99), an espresso-spiked cup of milky chai tea with overtones of cardamom among its warming spices, and an Apple Pie Milkshake ($4.15), the thick base of intense cinnamon ice cream tempered by sweet apple cider.
After our waffles were consumed, it was time to bring on the funk — Sophistafunk, that is, a popular local band that would play for the crowd later that evening, morphing the vibe from good eats to killer beats.
It all comes together to make the kind of place a foodie lives for — a welcoming space with reasonably priced dishes that have been thoughtfully conceived and humbly transformed from the seemingly ordinary into something truly unique and wonderful.
Weekend’s Dining Out reviews are based on an unannounced, anonymous visit. Aimee Koval shares reviewing duties with Denise Owen Harrigan. Recent reviews are available at syracuse.com/dining.
THE DETAILS
THE RESTAURANT: Funk'n Waffles, 727 S. Crouse Ave., Suite 8, Syracuse, 477-9700; Delivery phone: 454-4444.
CREDIT CARDS? Yes.
ACCESS TO DISABLED? No.
HOURS: 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday to Tuesday; 8:30 a.m. to 12 a.m. Wednesday to Saturday. Hours are subject to change due to evening events. Delivery hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.
COST: Four entrees and two specialty drinks, tax, and 10 percent tip (for a counter order delivered to the table) cost $45.26, or about $11 per person.
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