How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (2024)

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (1)
How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (2)

Ross Hoddinott/NaturePL

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (3)

Ross Hoddinott/NaturePL

  • Frogs and toads
  • Pond
  • Pollinator

A wildlife pond is one of the single best features for attracting new wildlife to the garden.

It is thought that some amphibians, such as frogs, are now more common in garden ponds than in the countryside. You can build a pond at any time during the year, but if you start in autumn or late winter, it will get established much quicker.

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (4)

You will need:

A big patch of garden

A plank of wood

Pond liner - preferably made of butyl rubber, which is durable, flexible, moderately cheap and easy to work with

A variety of pond plants

Some large rocks

A spirit level

Builder's sand

A good spade or mini-digger depending on how big your pond will be.

Water (use rainwater for best results)

How to build your pond

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (5)

Step 1
It is better for wildlife if you put the pond in a warm, sunny area – tadpoles, dragonflies and plants with thrive in these conditions. First, mark out your pond on the ground with a rope or hosepipe, and then get digging! Ensure that the sides are level as you dig by placing a plank across the pond’s hole with a spirit level on top. Remember to include some shallow areas - a sloping 'beach' is ideal, to allow wildlife easy access in and out of the pond.

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (6)

Step 2
Remove any sharp stonesfrom the bottom of the hole. Put down a 5 cm-thick layer of sand to line the hole. Sand is preferable because it is sterile and will not harbour any undesirable seeds or microbes, but you can also try old carpet, newspapers or even loft insulation material. Remember to save some sand for step 4.

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (7)

Step 3
Dig a trench around the edge of the pond for the overhanging pond liner to drop into. Place the liner carefully in the hole and tuck the edge into the trench; weigh it down with large rocks.Any extra excess liner can be snipped off with scissors.

Step 4
Fill the bottom of the pond with the remaining sand.

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (9)

Step 5
Fill the pond up, this may take longer than you think.If possible, use collected rainwater to fill your pond,or fill from the tap with a hose. To stop the sand substrate dispersing, rest the nozzle of the hose on a plastic bag to absorb some of the energy. If you do fill your pond with tap water then leave it so stand for a few days before adding it in.

As the pond fills up, the liner will stretch. Back fill the trench around the edge of the pond with soil. As the pond is filling, place turf, soil or flagstones over the exposed liner at the pond edges. Butyl liner degrades in sunlight, so try not to leave areas of uncovered liner exposed for too long.

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (10)

Step 6
Plants can be introduced to your pond approximately 1-2 weeks after the initial filling with water. Carefully selected native species (see below) will support your local wildlife.

How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (11)

Step 7
Watch and see what wildlife visits. Place stones, logs and plants around the edges to create habitats for pond-visiting creatures.Consider adding a plankof wood or a similar ramp to help any wildlife that might fall in. By including a gently sloping beach area when digging your pond, you can ensure wildlife have an easy way out.

If plants are well chosen, and the pond is kept in a relatively balanced ecological state, it shouldn’t need much maintenance at all. However, do keep an eye out for a build-up of dead organic matter and encroaching vegetation.

There are four 'zones' in which pond plants may be grown; try to have plants in each zone.

1) Totally submerged (in deeper water) - oxygenating plants

  • Spiked Water-milfoil -Myriophyllum spicatum
  • Hornwort -Ceratophyllym demersum (pollution intolerant)
  • Shining Pondweed -Potamogeton lucens
  • Horned Pondweed -Zannichellia palustris
  • Fennel Pondweed -Potamogeton pectinatus (pollution tolerant)
  • Water Starwort -Callitriche stagnalis (pollution intolerant)

2) Submerged but with floating leaves (also in deep water) - oxygenating plants

  • Water Crowfoot/Buttercup - Ranunculus aquatilis (pollution intolerant)
  • Bladderwort -Urticularia spp
  • Frogbit -Hydrocharis morsus-ranae
  • Broad-leaved Pondweed-Potamogeton natans (pollution tolerant)
  • Curled Pondweed - Potamogeton crispus (pollution tolerant)

3) Emergent (in shallower area)

  • Branched bur-reed -Sparganium erectum (tall, can be invasive)
  • Amphibious bistort -Persicaria amphibium
  • Arrowhead -Sagittaria aquatilis
  • Water crowfoot -Ranunculus aquatilis
  • Water mint -Mentha aquatica (can be invasive, strong scent deters some insects)
  • Flowering rush -Butomus umbellatus
  • Water plantain -Alisma plantago-quuatica (tall)
  • Water forget-me-not -Myosotis scorpiodes
  • Marsh cinquefoil -Potentilla palustris
  • Greater pond-sedge -Carex riparia (sedges and grasses are good for pond invertebrates)

4) Marginal (growing in the pond edge and bog areas)

  • Flowering Rush -Butomus umbellatus
  • Lady's Smock -Cardamine pratensis
  • Marsh Marigold -Caltha palustris
  • Purple Loosestrife -Lythrum salicaria (tall, good for bees)
  • Gipsywort -Lycopus europaeus
  • Meadowsweet -Filipendula ulmaria (tall, good for birds in autumn)
  • Brooklime -Veronica beccabunga
  • Ragged-Robin -Lychnis flos-cuculi
  • Soft Rush -Juncus effusus
  • Water Forget-me-not -Myosotis scorpioides
  • Bungle -Ajuga reptans
  • Water Avens -Geum rivale (spreading)
  • Marsh Woundwort -Stachys palustris (tall)
  • Great Willowherb -Epilobium hirsutum (tall)
  • Hemp Agrimony -Eupatorium cannabinum (tall)
  • Fleabane -Pulicaria dysenterica
  • Creeping Bent -Agrostis stolonifera
  • Marsh Foxtail -Alopecurus geniculatus
  • Fool's Watercress -Apium nodiflorum
  • Common Spike-rush-Eleocharis palustris
  • Water Pepper -Persicaria hydropiper
  • Silverweed -Potentilla anserina
  • Creeping Jenny-Lysimachia nummularia (low-growing ground cover)
  • Water Dock -Rumex hydrolapathum (can be invasive)
Ross Hoddinott/NaturePL Get your free Wild About Gardens Pond booklet
Edda Dupree - Shutterstock

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How to build a pond | The Wildlife Trusts (2024)

FAQs

How to build a pond for wildlife? ›

Place stones, logs and plants around the edges to create habitats for pond-visiting creatures. Consider adding a plank of wood or a similar ramp to help any wildlife that might fall in. By including a gently sloping beach area when digging your pond, you can ensure wildlife have an easy way out.

What is a cheap alternative to pond liners? ›

Tarpaulin. An incredibly affordable alternative to traditional pond liners is the humble tarpaulin. Many people already have one tucked away in their garage for camping or other outdoor activities, so it may seem like an obvious choice.

What is the best pond liner for wildlife pond? ›

For larger, natural ponds consider liners of puddled clay or sodium bentonite. Size and depth – the larger the pond, the more wildlife it will attract.

What is the best shape for a wildlife pond? ›

For a wildlife pond, the shape is not very important, so you can make a pond that has a 'natural wiggly shape', or is a 'formal' square or a circle - it depends on what you think looks good in your garden.

Can you have a small pond without a pump? ›

A pond can be oxygenated without a pump by incorporating a variety of submerged plants, floating plants, and marginal plants that add oxygen to the water. Additionally, ensuring more surface area for gas exchange and having a small waterfall or stream can aid oxygenation.

What is the fastest way to dig a pond? ›

Skid-steers and backhoes are the two most common pieces of equipment, but cranes and loaders can be used as well. A skid-steer can be effective in excavating the top shelves of the pond, but the bottom and final shaping should still be done with hand tools.

How to build a koi pond cheaply? ›

The mechanical parts like pumps and filters will be your most expensive outlays. You can bring down expenses on your koi pond by planning out a smaller one, digging out the trench on your own, getting a prefabricated koi pond liner, and buying smaller, less expensive domestic koi fish that cost under $3 per fish.

How deep to dig a pond? ›

As you learn how to dig a pond, you'll find that a steeper slope will minimize vegetation and algae growth. Depth: The depth of the pond affects the water quality, temperature, oxygen, and fish population. As you continue to learn how to dig a pond, you'll find that the recommended depth for most ponds is 10-12 feet.

Will a tarp work as a pond liner? ›

While tarps might initially seem like a good, low-cost option for pond lining, often their lack of durability, poor UV resistance, and tendency to tear make them unsuitable for the job.

Can I use black plastic as a pond liner? ›

Other forms of black plastic, such as the reinforced polyethylene and polypropylene liners we sell here at BTL Liners, are definitely a good choice for lining a pond. You'll notice our products have a noticeable grid pattern because of the reinforced design and a matte finish rather than a shiny surface.

What is the best natural liner for a pond? ›

RPE is the most balanced lining material, you can use it in almost any weather condition, and resist chemicals. Bentonite clay is the best lining material for large ponds where the quality of the water and life is important.

What is the best depth for a wildlife pond? ›

Generally, a mix of shallow areas (around 15-30 cm deep) and at least one deeper section (around 60 cm or more) is recommended. A maximum depth of about 1 metre is often sufficient for most garden wildlife ponds, ensuring ease of maintenance and safety, while still offering a diverse habitat.

What is the best gravel for wildlife ponds? ›

Pea Gravel 10mm

Perfect in any garden, but is also used in drainage schemes by house builders.

What should I put down before my pond liner? ›

How to Install Pond Liners - Liner Underlayment. If you're using an EPDM rubber liner, you'll definitely want to use a geotextile underlayment before installing a pond liner. While EMDM liners are nice and flexible, they don't have the puncture resistance to be installed directly on the soil substrate.

How deep does a pond need to be for fish? ›

If you're planning on stocking your pond with fish, aim for a depth of at least three feet. Shallower ponds are more susceptible to temperature fluctuations. In the summer, the water will heat up more quickly, and in the winter, it'll cool down more quickly.

How do you build a water source for wildlife? ›

In urban and suburban areas consider these options for adding a water source for wildlife. For a small spaces, consider adding bird baths and container water gardens. For larger properties, consider adding a rain garden, pond, or backyard marsh.

References

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