What's that Weed? Common Garden Weed Identification (with Photos) (2024)

How well do you know your weeds? Here are 13 of the most troublesome and noxious weeds with photographs to help identify them. Plus, see non-chemical solutions to eliminate weeds in your lawn and garden and 10 ways to prevent weeds fromgrowing.

What is a GardenWeed?

No one likes to deal with garden weeds, but some have to go—or they will outcompete your food crops, flowers, and nativeplants.

There are different types of “weeds.” Here are definitions based on the Weed Science Society of America’sdescriptions.

• Weed: A plant that causes economic losses or ecological damages, creates health problems for animals or humans, or is undesirable where it grows. Crabgrass is a classicexample.
• Noxious Weed: Any plant designated by federal, state, or local government officials as injurious to public health, agriculture, recreation, wildlife, or property. Field Bindweed and Purple Loosestrife are classic examples.See a list of noxious weeds by state.
• Invasive Weed: These non-native invaders lack natural competitors or enemies to curtail their growth, which allows them to overrun native plants, displace species, and alter ecosystems. Classic examples are Kudzu and EnglishIvy.

“Weeds” aren’t inherently bad. Many weeds stabilize the soil and add organic matter.Some are edible to humans and provide habitat and food for wildlife, too. Weeds are also indicators of your soil’s health—or lack thereof. Find out what weeds can tell you about your soil!

10 Ways to Prevent Weeds Before They Become aProblem

Herbicides are an obvious and quick fix, but they will not keep your weed problem from recurring year after year. For a healthy yard, you must address thecause.

1. The #1 rule with weeds is never let ‘em seed! Weed early, when the weeds are young. Some weeds produce tens of thousands of seeds from a single plant, multiplying your weed control problems for years. Get used to inspecting your garden daily. When weeds are young, pull them out or cut them off below the soil line. Be careful to keep your digging shallow so you don’t bring new weed seeds to the surface. Weeds are easy to remove when the ground is moist, such as the day after freshrainfall.
2. Clean your gardening tools when you move from one area to another to avoid spreading weed seeds.Do not leave pulled weeds on the surface, either; discard them in thetrash.
3. Mow your lawn regularly to keep lawn weeds from producing seed. Mow off these greenleaves!
4. Be careful when buying materials from garden centers. Ask for weed-free mulch, manure, compost, and soil. Read grass seed labels to ensure they don’t contain other cropseeds.
5. If you have time (6 to 8 weeks BEFORE planting seeds), cover a weedy patchwith landscape fabric, black plastic, or an old carpet. First, break up thetop 4 to 8 inches of soil in your garden beds, rake it flat, and cover the soil. Then, avoid cultivating the soil to a depth greater than 2 inches. (Do this in fall, winter, or early spring when it’s not active gardeningseason.)
6. Once you’ve seeded, do not till a garden area if it’s filled with perennial weeds; you’ll only break up the underground tubers and spread weedsaround.
7. Apply a layer of mulch! Weeds seeds have a harder time pushing through mulch, which blocks sunlight. Learn more about how to mulch to limit weedgrowth.
8. Water right around your plants; do not sprinkle your entire garden, or you will be watering yourweeds.
9. In lawns, be careful not to over-fertilize or under-fertilize, as you’ll promote weedgrowth.
10. Establish a perimeter.Pay special attention to the area adjoining your flower beds, garden, natural area, or lawn, and establish a weed-free perimeter.Mow or mulch the area or pull or dig up weeds as they emerge.You’ll help to reduce the number of new weed seeds in the area you want to protect.Also, a good trimmer can make it easier to reach weedsalong garden beds, posts, and tightspots.

Pay special attention to “perennial weeds,” as identified in the list below.Perennial weeds (versus annuals) come back year after year and are more difficult to control. You must dig up any roots, underground tubers, and rhizomes without leaving fragments behind.New weeds can grow from pieces that break off and remain in thesoil.

1. Cut off the emerging green part of the weed with your hoe or mower, repeating the process quickly each time it regrows. Without the leaves needed for photosynthesis, the underground plant parts will becomeweakened and mayeventuallydie.
2. If you dig out the weed, try to remove the taproot or as much as you can. You may need to repeat it severaltimes.
3. When pulling out these weeds, wait until the soil is moist and grasp low on the stem to avoid breaking itoff.

With these techniques, you’ll soon find that you won’t spend much time weeding in the comingyears!

13Common Lawn and GardenWeeds

Below are some of the most common lawn and garden weeds. Wehave divided this list of weeds into two sections:1) troublesome weeds, which compete with vegetables, fruits, and crops but may also have their own beneficial uses (in fact, many are edible plants or attract pollinators) and, 2) noxious weeds, which are so harmful to the ecology that they are prohibited or controlled by law on a federal or statelevel.

Remember: Only you decide what a weed is and what the consequences are. For example, if you are trying to grow asparagus, you need to keep the bed weed-free, or you will have a poor harvest. On the other hand, if you don’t mind your yard being taken over by dandelions, let ithappen!

I. Troublesome Weeds

The following weeds are not noxious—but will spring up on their own in gardens and yards and are troublesome if not controlled. Again, you decide what is a weed. If you have these weeds amidst your vegetables and want to keep them because of their nutritional content, just know that they will affect the yield of your intendedharvest.

1. Crabgrass (Digitariaspp.)

Crabgrass is a low-growing summer annual that spreads by seed and from the rootings of nodes on the soil. Undisturbed, it can grow to 2 feettall.

This weed appears from mid-spring through summer when the ground is warm. It grows well under dry, hot conditions.As an annual, crabgrassdies at the end of each growing season—usually at the first frost in the fall—and it must produce new seeds everyyear.

How to Control Crabgrass
Fortunately, crabgrass is fairly easy to manage. Controlling crabgrass before it sets seed is important because the seeds can remain viable for at least three years in thesoil.

In the lawn, mowing regularly is often all you need to prevent crabgrass from flowering and producing seed. Most experts recommend that you mow your lawn to a height of 2 to 4 inches and that you mow frequently enough to keep it within thatrange.

Also, if you keep a lawn, select grass adapted to your location so it’sa healthy, thick lawn. Crabgrass loves a poor lawn. Because seedling crabgrass isn’t very competitive, a vigorously growing turf will crowd out new seedlings. Perennial ryegrass is the best competition for crabgrass. It also provides some insect control, emitting a natural poison that gives some small, damaging bugs the “flu.” Fertilizing is key and must be done in the spring andfall.

Many herbicides for crabgrass aren’t that effective.Avoid using chemical herbicides in vegetable gardens because of the variety of crops grown and planted there.In gardens, you can easily control crabgrass by mulching, hoeing, and hand pulling when the plants are young and before they set seed. You also can control this weed with solarization. Finally, crabgrass thrives in compacted lawns, so work on aerating the lawn; this will go a longway.

Mulching with wood products (e.g., wood chips or nuggets), composted yard waste, or synthetic landscape fabrics covered with mulch will reduce crabgrass in shrub beds and bedding plants and around trees by blocking sunlight needed for its germination, establishment, and growth. If crabgrass is germinating in the mulch, move it with a rake to reduce seedling establishment. Hand-pull escaped crabgrass plants before they setseed.

Is Crabgrass Edible?
Technically, yes, but grasses are generally not the tastiest weeds out there! That said, crabgrass can be used as a forage crop for livestock,and its seeds have historically beenharvested as an ediblegrain.

2. Purslane (Portulacaoleracea)

Purslane is considered noxious in at least one U.S. state. Why is this edible annual succulent plant considered troublesome? After all,it’s high in vitamins and even grown as a crop in somecountries.

The answer goes back to the definition of weeds: Purslane can produceover 2,000,000 seeds PER PLANT!It reproduces by tiny black seeds and stem fragments in late spring and vegetatively through its leaves, making it especially tough to eradicate. Many gardeners have hoed purslane one day only to see it growing at full strength the next. So, unless you only want to grow purslane, think about how to controlit.

How to Control Purslane
In-home landscapes and gardens this summer, weeds are generally managed by hand-weeding. Keep an eye out for the purslane! Pull out this weed as soon as you see it and destroy the plant; this weed can live in your soil foryears!

Mulching is also helpful, especially in garden beds.To be effective, organic mulches should be at least 3 inches thick. Synthetic mulches (plastic or fabric mulch), which screen out light and provide a physical barrier to seedling development, also work well. Fabric mulches, which are porous and allow the flow of water and air to roots, are preferred over plastics. Combinations of synthetic mulches with organic or rock mulches on top are commonly used in ornamentalplantings.

Is Purslane Edible?
Yes, you can eat purslane when it’s young and tender (assuming you’re not using chemicals in your garden). It’s a nutritional powerhouse and a great additionto asalad or stir-fry. See the health benefits of purslane, as well as some deliciousrecipes.

3. Lambsquarters (Chenopodiumalbum)

Another edible weed! Lambsquarters is a fast-growing summer annual that is very nutritious and delicious, steamed, in salads, or juiced. But treasure the tender baby lambsquarters, or they will get huge and be a troublesome weed. This summer, annual broadleaf weed is a big problem in gardens and farms withsugar beets, vegetable crops, and pulse cropssuch as dry edible beans, lentils, andchickpeas.

Lambsquarters is a very fast-growing annual with seeds that are small and light enough to be blown by the wind over short distances. The seeds can sometimes even survive for decades in the soil. Under favorable conditions, these weeds can establish themselves quickly and spreadprofusely.

How to Control Lambsquarters
This summertime weed rapidly removes moisture from the soil, so remove it from unwanted areas as soon as possible!Cultivate lambsquartersout of your garden using a sharphoe.

Is Lambsquarters Edible?
Yes, you can eat lambsquarters (assuming you’re not using chemicals in your garden). In fact, their leaves are quite high in beneficial nutrients! The young shoots and leaves can be eaten raw in any vegetable dish or sauteed or steamed like spinach. See our natural health blogger’s post on Anytime Salad.

4. Pigweed (Amaranthusspp.)

Pigweedwinsthe title of the most “problematic” annual weed.Ithas evolved traits that make ita tough competitor, especially in broadleaf crops like soybeans andcotton.

An annual weed that reproduces by seeds, pigweed is characterized by its fleshly red taproot. This weedappears in late spring or early summer and likes warmweather.

How to Control Pigweed
Try to pull out this weed before itflowers!

Some weed seeds require light for germination, and pigweed is one of those.To prevent pigweedin the future, cover your garden plot with winter mulch.

Also, till very shallowly in the spring, only turning up a small amount of soil in order to keep those seeds buried.When you till, you may bring up some pigweed seed, so it’s best to mulch again. Cover the soil with five layers of wet newspaper with 3-6 inches ofmulch.

Is Pigweed Edible?
Pigweed is alsoedible—though onlywhen young and tender (and taken from a pesticide-free area).In June, the young leaves of Amaranthus blitum or amaranth are abundant and should be eaten because of their high nutritional content. Vitamin-wise, these greens are packed like carrots or beets and can be delicious in a tossed salad. You can also cook them as you would spinach. Some Native Americans traditionally used the black seeds of this plant as a ground meal forbaking.

5. Chickweed (Stellaria sp. & Cerastiumspp.)

Common chickweed (Stellaria media)is a winter annualthat grows in well-watered areas. It’s areservoir for insect pests and plantviruses.

When growing without competition from other plants, common chickweed can produce approximately 800 seeds and takes up to 8 years to eradicate. Chickweedthrives in moist, cool areas, so it often gets started before spring crops can become competitive. For this reason, it can limit your vegetableharvest.

Common chickweed often forms dense mats and rarely grows higher than 2 inches.The flowers are small, with five white petals. Common chickweed will grow in a wide range of soils but does particularly well in neutral pH soils with high nitrogen. It doesn’t grow as well in low pH (acidic)soils.

How to Control Chickweed
Fortunately, annual chickweed is easier to control as long as you pull it when the plant is small and before it flowers. The challenge can be locating it during the short period between germination and flower production, so be sure to monitor it closely and completely remove the weed so it doesn’treroot.

Remember, this is a “winter annual.” So, monitor the soil surface for chickweed seedlings throughout late fall and winter and then remove them by shallow cultivation or by hand pulling.By springtime, we would not recommend chemical controls forthis winterannual.

Using a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, at least two inches deep will reduce the number of weed seeds germinating by limiting light and serving as a physical barrier. Synthetic mulches, such as landscape fabrics, may also be used. Landscaped areas should be covered with an additional layer of mulch (rock or bark). Vegetable gardens can also utilize black plastic, both as mulch into which seeds or transplants are placed and also betweenrows.

Is ChickweedEdible?
Chickweed isedible. When young, the leaves, stems, and flowers can be eaten raw or cooked. It adds a delicate spinach-like taste to any dish. Chickweed can also be a tonic and made into atea.

6. Dandelion(Taraxacumofficinale)

Ah, we love much about dandelions with their bright yellow heads in the springtime. This perennial weed forms rosettes of leaves with yellow flower clusters rising from the center. Bees can also find dandelions helpful, though this plant is not a preferred food (and a poor quality source of protein). If you care about bees: Yes, alawn full of dandelions is better for bees than a weed-free lawn, but not nearly as good as a garden with various plants and nodandelions.

In addition, in time,dandelions will alsotake over any habitat, from your garden to your ornamentals to your grasses. Not only do dandelions have wind-borne seeds, but they alsoreproduce vegetatively thanks to large tap roots. So unless you cut the root deep into the soil, you can rest assured the plant willreemerge.

How to Control Dandelions
Removing mature dandelions by hand-pulling or hoeing is often futile (unless done repeatedly over a long period of time) because of the deep tap root system of established plants. It’s best to pull young dandelions by grasping them firmly by their base and wigglinggently as you must dislodge their deep taproot from the soil. Alternatively, use a hand trowel to dig them out.Remove the whole dandelion root at once, as any piece left in the ground will probably growback.

If you keep a lawn, avigorous (and competitive) lawn will slow down dandelion infestation. Dense turfgrass and ornamentals shade the soil surface, reducing the establishment of new dandelion seedlings. Many broadleaf weeds may be controlled with mowing, but this is NOT true of dandelion. Because it grows from a basal rosette that is lower than a mower blade can reach, mowing will not affectcontrol.

For a garden bed, mulches of wood chips or bark are effective if maintained at a depth of at least 3 inches (and replaced over time). Mulching with landscape fabrics can be particularly effective for controlling seedlings, reducing the amount of light that can reach the soil. Use polypropylene or polyester fabric or black polyethylene (plastic tarp) to block all plantgrowth.

Solitary new dandelion plants along fence rows, roadsides, flower beds, and turfgrass should be grubbed out (removed by digging out the entire plant, taproot, and all) before they produce seed. Dandelion knives and similar specialized tools are available to remove individual weeds and their roots while minimizing soil disturbance. Monitor the area for several months to make sure that the removal of the taproot wascomplete.

Are Dandelions Edible?
Yes! If you cut the leaves of this perennial when they are young, you can enjoy tender greens in a salad. The wild ones in the spring are amazing! The flowers, too, can be eaten raw or fried or used to make dandelion wine.Here are a few dandelion recipes to try: Dandelion Recipes. Be sure to leave plenty of dandelions forpollinators.

7. Shepherd’s Purse (Capsellabursa-pastoris)

Shepherd’s purse is actually a Brassica and part of the Mustard family, along with cabbage.This flowering annual produces heart-shaped seedpods after flowering.It likes cool weather, and its yellowish-brown seeds are long-lived in theground.

How to Control Shepherd’s Purse
Watch for its distinct leaves and pull out this annual weed by hand before it seeds. Be sure to remove the entireroot.

Is Shepherd’s Purse Edible?
The immature heart-shaped seedpods of shepherd’s purse taste peppery and can be used as a garnish in moderation. Shepherd’s Purse also has a long history as a natural remedy for healing.Note: The leaves and mature seeds may cause indigestion and should not beconsumed.

8. Creeping Charlie(Glechomahederacea)

Creeping Charlie (ground ivy) and wild violet are common in shady lawns.Native to Europe, this perennial plant grows low to the ground in a vining habit, killing everything else around it. The plant has bright green leaves with scalloped edges on creeping stems (called stolons) that grow along theground.

Creeping Charlie is so challenging because it spreads by seeds and creeping stems. If you try to dig it out and leave behind a fragment of rhizome (root), even a tiny piece can grow as a newplant!

How to Control CreepingCharlie

• Improve turf density by seeding grasses in shady areas, which will help limit this weed fromspreading.
• Also, make sure to grow the most suitable type of turfgrass for the location (e.g., plant shade-tolerant turfgrass varieties undertrees).
• Improve soil drainage or water less frequently to dry thesoil.
• Mow regularly (to a height of 2 to 3½ inches), fertilizing and watering appropriately and overseeding in thefall.
• Pull out Creeping Charlie by hand if you only see a plant or two here or there. Try to pull the weed without breaking it, and over time, it may giveup.

In heavily infested areas, the extensive spreading stems of creeping Charlie can be difficult to remove completely. If you have weed mats, smother them with a barrier of newspaper, tarp, or cardboard that will block all sunlight for at least a week. Once plants are pulled, make sure to dispose of the plants in such a way that they cannot re-root.Common herbicides do notwork.

Is Creeping Charlie Edible?
Prior to the mass cultivation of hops, Creeping Charlie was historically used in the beer brewing process. As a member of the mint family, I find it to have a slightly minty flavor and is often used by medicalherbalists.

Noxious Weeds:

The noxious weeds (on the federal and/or state level) on this list include field bindweed, quackgrass, Canada thistle, yellow nutsedge, andbuckhorn plantain. There are other noxious weeds out there that are also problematic, such as Johnsongrass, but the ones listed here tend to be the mostcommon.

9. Quackgrass (Elytrigiarepens)

Quackgrass is acreeping, persistent perennial grassthat reproduces by seeds. Its long, jointed, straw-colored rhizomes form a heavy mat in soil, from which new shoots may alsoappear.

How to Control Quackgrass
Try to dig out this fast-growing grass as soon as you see it in your garden, being sure to dig up the entirety of the plant (including the roots). Dispose of it in your waste binrather than the compost pile, as it will likely continue to grow in thelatter!

Is Quackgrass Edible?
Notparticularly.

10. CanadaThistle (Cirsiumarvense)

Canada thistleis an aggressive, creeping perennial weed from Eurasia (despite its name). Itinfests crops, pastures, andnon-crop areas like ditch banks and roadsides.Canada thistle reduces forage consumption in pastures and rangeland because cattle typically will not graze nearinfestations.

This weed reproduces by seedand whitish, creeping rootstocks, which send up new shoots every 8 to 12 inches. Plants reach 2 to 4 feet tall, grow in colonies, and reproduce asexually from rhizomatous roots (any part of the root system may give rise to new plants) or sexually from wind-blownseed.

The plant emerges from its roots in mid-to late spring and forms rosettes. Then, it will send up shoots every 8 to 12 inches. You may spot its purple flowers in July andAugust.

How to Control Canada Thistle
Canada thistle is difficult to control because its extensive and deep root system allows it to recover from control attempts easily. Horizontal roots may extend outward 15 feet or more, and vertical roots may grow 6 to 15 feet deep! Plus, seeds may retain viability for 4 or more years in thesoil.

The first plants must be destroyed by pulling or hoeing before they become securely rooted. Look for Canada thistle above ground in earlyspring.

If Canada thistle becomes rooted, the best control is tostress the plant and force it to use stored root nutrients. It’sat its weakest during the flowering stage in the summertime; this is a good time to begin cultivation and destroy the roots and rootstock.One season of cultivation, followed by a season of growing competitive crops, such as winter rye, will go a long way towarderadication.

An approved herbicide, applied for two years in a heavily thistle-infested area, is an effective and limited control. Usually, a combination of techniques is needed.Consult with your local cooperative extension office.

Is Canada Thistle Edible?
Believe it or not, Canada thistle is, in fact, edible—with some preparation required, of course. After the spines are meticulously removed, theleaves can be prepared like spinach. The stems are the most prized part, though their bristled outsidesmust be peeled first. Be sure to weargloves!

11. Bindweed(Convolvulusarvensis)

Field bindweedis a hardy perennial vine given many names, including perennial, wild morning glory, and creeping Jenny. This noxious weed sprouts in late spring and becomes a huge problem in warm weather when it spreadsruthlessly.

Note: Bindweed is NOT the same as the annual morning glory (in the genusIpomea), which has a larger (2-inch wide), showier flower and heart-shapedleaves.

An invasive from Eurasia, field bindweed is one of themost persistent weeds. The fast-growing root system grows right through the roots of other plants! And its roots are found to depths of 14 feet!Lateral roots form secondary vertical roots, anchoring the plant in place. Asingle field bindweed plant can spread radially more than 10 feet in a growing season. This extensive underground network allows for overwintering without foliage, and it can persist for up to 50 years in thesoil.

How to Control Bindweed
Unfortunately, tilling aids bindweed’s spread. Fragments of vertical roots and rhizomes as short as 2 inches can form new plants! The best controlis prevention or early intervention. Seedlings of field bindweed must be removed before they become perennial plants within 3 to 4 weeks of germination. After that, perennial buds are formed, and by summer, it’s almost impossible to get all theroots.

Remember that each root fragment will grow into a new plant, so use a garden fork to pull out the entire root, including the soil, carefully. Since bindweed grows through the roots of other plants, you may also need to lift your other perennials andplants!

Is Bindweed Edible?
No. All parts of the bindweed plant arepoisonous. Do notingest.

12. Nutsedge(Cyperusspp.)

Nutsedges are perennial weeds that superficially resemble grasses, but they are thicker and stiffer. Their leavesare arranged in sets of three from their base instead of sets of two, as you would find in grass leaves. They are among the most problematic weeds for vegetable crops andcan greatly reduce harvest yields.Yellow nutsedge flowers and seeds are light brown, purple nutsedge flowers have a reddish tinge, and the seeds are dark brown orblack.

How to Control Nutsedge
If you have nutsedge, it’s often an indication that your soil drainage is poor orwaterlogged. However, once nutsedge is established, it’s very difficult tocontrol.

The best approach is to prevent the establishment of the weed in the first place. Remove small plants before they develop tubers. Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. If you can limit the production of tubers, you’ll eventually control the nutsedge itself.Most herbicides aren’t effective againsttubers.

Also, eliminate the wet conditions that favor nutsedge growth. Use mulches in landscape beds.Landscape fabrics are the best mulch for sedges because the sharp leaves of nutsedge can find their way through othermulches.

Is Nutsedge Edible?
Dating back to ancientEgypt, yellow nutsedge has historically been harvested for its tubers, which have a sweet, nutty flavor. Purple nutsedge tubers are edible but have a less pleasant, bittertaste.

13. Buckhorn Plantain (Plantagolanceolata)

Buckhorn plantain (English plantain or narrow-leaved plantain) is a commonperennial weed most often found in pastures, meadows, and lawns. It reproduces and spreads byseeds.

How to Control Buckhorn Plantain
Buckhorn plantain is low-growing, making it difficult to remove by hand. Its long taproot also makes it drought-tolerant and difficult tocontrol.

So, to remove this weed,be diligent about pulling up young plants and destroying them before they go to seed. Learn how toscout andrecognize young plants to help prevent early introductions from becoming persistentproblems.

The best control is also preventative: grow a lush stand of plants so the soil’s surface is shaded and prevents new seeds from getting established.As a last resort, approved herbicides are effective for spraying buckhorn plantain in the fall. Speak to your local cooperative extension.

Is Buckhorn Plantain Edible?
Yes, this weed is edible, especially when the leaves are young and tender. Enjoy it raw, steamed, boiled, orsauteed.

Learn More AboutWeeds

To learn more about combating common garden weeds, see Weed Control Techniques,as well as our mulching guide.

What weed are you currently battling? Tell us your tips andtricks!